It’s been tough. 2021 brought many in fashion to the brink of despair. It could easily have stripped the joy out of Christmas, turned summer holidays into a month of worry. But for three of Melbourne’s most exciting, most loveable independent designers, that’s unlikely. After weathering the pandemic’s punishing early months, designers Chris Ran Lin, Alice Edgeley and Kathryn Jamieson re-shaped their businesses to fit a new world order and moved on to the rhythm of a mantra spreading quick as Covid across fashion: “Adapt, pivot, survive, thrive”. In their own unerringly honest words, they describe what it’s been like and how they’ll spend the traditional summer crescendo. Let’s start with Gun Shy…
Kathryn Jamieson is Gun Shy, a designer brand of luxurious, high-end hand-made faux furs beloved by celebrities, artists and off-beat fashionistocrats around the world. Her latest range of brightly coloured half-jackets and streetwear, “Unprecedented”, she says, is “exactly what we needed”…
“How did I survive 2021? I pivoted to adapt to the lockdowns…a studio move and a focus to online. Gun Shy is mainly a made-to-order business; I thrive on intimate connections with customers, in-studio fittings, a personal touch. The pandemic took this away. I had to adapt to design sessions and fittings on Zoom…surprisingly a really fun process (with) some customers so excited they would have friends with them to help their choices, often a bubbly…! We would discuss the design, I would show fur options (or) send samples of the furs to touch. To get fitting right, I would send a diagram, how to measure yourself, always quite comical, especially should to wrist; we always had a laugh…! I am so impressed by my customers, able to fit their own jackets via Zoom under my guidance. The pivot to Zoom worked fine.
“The downside of the lockdowns is that I was affected mentally, just couldn’t function to the same pace I normally would. I experienced tiredness, everything seemed to be taking a zillion times longer to do. My customers are beautiful, extraordinary and very understanding. If (one) was a big annoyed by the time they got their outrageously beautiful jacket; all is forgiven!
What about Christmas? “Christmas is very low key for me. We have a small family gathering on Christmas Eve. I usually spend Christmas day twiddling my thumbs wondering what to do with myself (laughs). Leading up to Christmas will be spent trying to catch up on orders. A few Christmas parties will be fun but definitely nowhere near as hectic as previous years. I am look forward to the madness of Christmases past; maybe 2022 will bring the goods!”
Alice Edgeley’s eponymous label is loved by performers from London to New York and “all kinds of people who don’t take fashion too seriously. 220 Gertrude St., Fitzroy.
“The pandemic was such a huge change. I have a shopfront so that had to shut. My landlord was very nice though; I was lucky. We quickly did a shoot (before lockdown) to get my winter collection up online. In the city it was deserted so (the photos) looked quite amazing.
“After that I didn’t feel inspired at all. There were a lot of fabrics I couldn’t get. I finally made some things that I actually liked but it was really hard to maintain inspiration. I found myself doubting everything I’ve done. I design for a lot of performers and obviously they weren’t doing anything, people weren’t going out. So I made a ‘zine, a little magazine! I just asked all the people I could think of to do something for it. I called it Bad Weekend, sold through my website. You could pay $15, $20 or $25 depending how poor or rich you were feeling. It was actually really nice. We printed 1000 and I’ve only got a few left. I’ll do issue two in time for summer reading.
“I did get lots of orders for custom loungewear. My velvet leggings are a bit more glamorous than tracksuit pants. I actually did quite well! Lockdown’s over but I still just open (the store) on Saturdays, by appointment during the week. I like to just sit here quietly beavering away and if someone comes in they’ve got my undivided attention. A fluorescent pink jumpsuit with orange Swarovski crystals has sold really well. You can have it with crystals or without crystals!
“Christmas? We’re not christian or anything but we do have Christmas lunch. I’ve decided we’re going to have a green theme this year. I’ll make a shirt for my husband, maybe something for my mum and an outfit for my new niece. My sister, she works with me, will probably make her own. Then I’m taking three or four weeks off in the countryside. Oh and I didn’t mention; I also joined a band! I’m learning the drums….we had our first little gig in my shop window then a gig down at the Espy…..”
Chris Ran Lin’s high-end menswear brand is “highly experimental”, “beyond traditional tailoring” with a focus on knitwear inspired by “architecture, structure and texture”. St Collins Lane, Level 1/260 Collins St., Melbourne.
“It’s a tough time but being small we’re more flexible. I have to work in a different way; more on paper and pen with thinking and imagination (though) my design process is more material driven. I love to touch the fabric, the yarn, try different things. But to send fabric and yarn here (for sampling), the cost of the shipment was more than the material. So I got swatches, I look at swatches. It’s hard but I have to cut costs for the business otherwise it will stop.
“Before (the pandemic) I was trying to expand my label into the Chinese market and now I’m giving authority to a company in China to handle my business while I just continue here. We know each other for some years so we have a really good relationship. We’re not going for a huge move – it is very competitive in China; thousands of new independent (brands)! – just slowly for now, a little bit of marketing, a little bit of selling. Some items from my autumn/winter – camel colours – are selling really well. Some celebrities in China love them. No, I don’t know them! (upcoming actress Guan Xiaotong is one) they are so new. But they have huge followings…In Australia I still have private clients supporting my label (online) and to try on for real, we have a pop-up (store, St. Collins Lane).
“Christmas? My family is not actually celebrating Christmas but it is a holiday for us, a day off. I’ll possibly be working on my new collection: look-book, photos, samples, I have to be organised! We do have huge family gatherings for holidays like Christmas and Chinese New Year; aunties, uncles, cousins, my niece and nephews…It’s quite fantastic to see each other. Sometimes they all bring food, sometimes make food together since the morning. I love the family gatherings! A big party. But I can’t stay long; it’s too noisy! All the kids, so many many kids running around like dinosaurs! It’s lovely but crazy!”
Story commissioned by Fran Kerlin for Creative Victoria’s Fashion News report. Subscribe here for regular industry updates and the latest on grants and resources for Victorian fashion businesses.
