Voxfrock’s diary fattened to dozens of dates this week. Too many to muse over. We sifted the nuggets, but will offer a short-shot bulletin list of Voxdates including exhibitions, product releases, collection shows, appearances, sales and other frocky arty newsy events, from next week. Email info@voxfrock.com.au to add yours.
FUTURE MEN
Milan is emptying. Paris is filling up. The Spring/Summer 2014 menswear show series is half done. Paris kicks off, Australian time, tonight and rolls on to Monday. Voxfrock urges chaps to bookmark www.style.com and www.nowfashion.com if they have not already done so, and to reserve a kick-back time slot of approximately 4.5 to 6.2 minutes for Voxfrock’s complete wrap of the chaps next week. In the meantime, the Voxfrock team’s preliminary heads-down-bottoms-up review of London and Milan menswear shows triggered this gallery of key runway shots and list of evolving trends which may, or not, alter dramatically when Paris’s shows weigh into the mix:.
IN FOR SPRING
Easier and oxford-style long-fly trousers often sharply creased and cropped or cuffed above the ankle.
Pattern-on-pattern-on-pattern co-ordinates and layers of separates (shirt and trousers, jacket, coat) often match-patterned.
Tone-on-tone-on-tone (ditto above, and pictured, from the Giorgio Armani collection). Particularly white-on-white
Navy, stone, plum, teale, pea green, camel and clay, white on white, black. Detractors included ice-cream palette at Marc Jacobs, and a Mondrian paintbox mix at Burberry Prorsum.
Tailored fly jackets.
One button single breasted suits and sports jackets
Double breasted tailoring, from classicly loose volumes at Zegna, to cropped and lean-fitting jackets at Prada, close to the body as a shirt.
Voluminous knee-length and 3/4 shorts, with detractors including Marc Jacobs’ thigh shorts.
Sweaters and T-tops worn long and untucked, to the hipbone.
Socklessness – there’s another season or 10 left in this trend, happily practiced by all ages and demographics.
White shirts
Short sleeves worn over long sleeves.
Buttoned collars
Solid soled snub-toed lace-ups
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PRETTY SHINEY STIFFER-THAN-YOUR-AVERAGE THINGS
Australian fashion portal and webshop Jasu, blossoms on. (ASOS Who?) Voxfrock is particularly grateful New Zealand brand Stolen Girlfriend’s Club is in its tricky mix. SGC is among Voxfrock’s many fave local-ish labels for its exuberant, youthful, bulls-eye collections. Now triggering conniptions at Voxfrock, is a “viper” top featuring two snakes in a fanged helix embrace ($216), and a gratifyingly pretty, shiney, stiffer-than-average circle mini skirt, pictured, ($206). (Voxfootnote: albeit, best suited to girls with toothpick thighs.)
In fact, Jasu’s stable of 56 labels includes a heady brace of Voxfrock’s extra-special-cherry-on-top favorites; Bec and Bridge, Christopher Esber, Deadly Ponies, Dion Lee, Ellery, Gail Sorronda, Garth Cook, Ginger & Smart , Josh Goot, Michael Lo Sordo, Nicola Finetti, Nobody, Romance Was Born, Skin and Threads, Talulah, many others.
And Kahlo. Jot in your diary, dear reader, that a severely limited discount period currently applies to the winter 2013 Kahlo collection by designers, Rachelle Sinclaire and Fay Ogunbadejo who first impressed Voxfrock at Australian Fashion Week and continue to do so. Today, tomorrow, and the next day, Kahlo’s simply cut, intuitively weighted and restrained leather, PVC and thick textured wool dresses, tops and bottoms, will cost 30 percent less usual. Kahlo’s “Higher Self” zip dress, for example, is $346.50, not $495. And its “Retrospect” leather dress (pictured), $336 not $480. So best get cracking.
Voxfrock observes a ground-swell of small fry brands such as SGC and Kahlo, are rocking the trend to stiffer fashion: leather, nubuck and suede, PVC, neoperine and coated fabrics. More sculpt, less slump is their modus operandi. After a decade of fluid, silky fabrics and what-all drapery, we gratefully welcome this stiffer stuff into our wardrobes. We particularly appreciate the cleverest designers who also exploit the light-emitting gloss of PVC, or the light-sucking sheen of leather, or the ability of neoporine and some thick-coated fabrics to sit, simple as a board, against the body.
On their own they are a paper-doll-esque revelation of intersecting lines and near-uninterrupted planes. Worn with those fluid and silky things that will swing in the average wardrobe for a season or three yet, they are a marvellously stiff counterpoint to softness and an instant visual moderniser. We like that.
www.Jasu.com
Compiled by Candice Burke, info@voxfrock.com.au with Janice Breen Burns, jbb@voxfrock.com.au and Terry Carruthers, intern@voxfrock.com.au