Fresh from the Frow, Janice Breen Burns and Yuzuha Oka recap the trends that matter, illustrator Robin Cowcher renders the frocks that took her fancy, and backstage, Monty Coles’ RMIT Rookie Crew photographs the moments you won’t see anywhere else. For more updates as VAMFF unrolls, join Voxfrock’s streams of social media and click back later for Estelle Michaelides’ and Kayla Piccolo’s street style reports and pix from VAMFF’s teaming Plaza. (Main photo, top: detail from Zhonga Wang’s backstage study of David Jones’ Opening Runway)
Runway recap: Janice Breen Burns
Backstage at David Jones’ Opening Runway, Vamff
Photo: Zhonga Wang, RMIT Rookie Crew, Voxfrock/VAMFF 2016
David Jones’ hosted VAMFF’s big-splash Opening Runway under the soaring vaults of the Royal Exhibition Buildings. Model’s thumped onto the runway in themed battalions that set a few simple rules for Nowness in winter 2016…
David Jones’ Opening Runway.
Illustration: Robin Cowcher
1. Black is the new black but, best animated by a tricky effect such as lazer-cut lattice, thicker-than-you’re-used-to-lace, slashed panels, sugar-bag re-ties and all manner of jetbead and dark crystal embellishments for enough glint and low flash to offset that blackness.
Backstage at David Jones’ Opening Runway.
Photo: Monty Coles, www.theloupe.org
2. Black goes nicely with white, grey, the odd slab of green, bulls-blood, blue, or itself: ie. black.
David Jones’ Opening Runway.
Illustration: Robin Cowcher
3. Denim is also the new denim: skinny as 1999, or cropped and cullotte style as in 1977.
4. Volume is the new volume: the global spread of big stiff and luscious soft volumes by brands such as Ellery and Vetements will inform our wardrobes for some considerable time to come. In a word (ok, two) Go Large.
Backstage at David Jones’ Opening Runway.
Photo: Gina Crawley, RMIT Rookie Crew, VAMFF 2016
Runway recap: Yuzuha Oka picks her faves
Camilla and Marc’s deep crimson Cezanne coat; the perfect match for a burgundy satin dress, ticking the trends with a statement shearling collar and oversized silhouette.
Transparent sleeves with delicate lace embroidery and fluid silhouettes were popular and, a trend consistent with London Fall 2016 runways. Also starring frequently; accentuated V lines on wide notched collar coats, deep V neck tops and slit skirts.
Backstage at David Jones’ Opening Runway
Photo: Monty Coles, www.theloupe.org
A Dion Lee skirt stood out; its pencil silhouette featuring netted, three-dimensional overlay.
Backstage at David Jones’ Opening Runway.
Photo: Zhonga Wang, RMIT Rookie Crew, Voxfrock/VAMFF 2016
Tome gave a twist to a classic black and white combination, resulting in the impression of a Japanese martial arts outfit: black satin belt accentuating the waist of an oversized white shirt. Another combination of white ruffled shirt with black gaucho pants, resembled an archery outfit.
David Jones Opening Runway.
Photo: Stuart Chen, RMIT Rookie Crew, Vamff 2016
Ellery’s distinctive bell-shaped sleeves starred in the finale, propelled by the powerful soul voice of Papua New Guinea-born singer Ngaiire and enhanced by the dreamy architecture of the historic Royal Exhibition Building.
Opening Runway finale
Photo: Monty Coles, RMIT adjunct professor, head of RMIT/Voxfrock Rookie Crew VAMFF 2016
Janice Breen Burns, jbb@voxfrock.com.au
