Somewhere in the flurry of bloggers and phoggers posing excitedly for each other (“This ok? This? Now, I’ll do you..”) at Everleigh‘s vast Carriageworks hangar, the real business of Mercedes Benz Fashion Week Australia has cranked into high gear since its launch on Sunday.
The odd frock, in other words, has made it down the odd runway, and trends for spring/summer 2015/2016 – markers of Now-osity According to Voxfrock – have revealed themselves in the patterns of repetition.
Comically lush volumes for example, have finally made it out of Euro/US collections and onto the drawing boards of several Aussie designers. Spring’s most lavish dresses are particularly lovely…
Patio and flagged trousers are equally lush, though their volumes are often more strictly controlled by a tailored taper or, in the manner of Kym Ellery, belled from the knees. The fullest are full from thigh-top to floor where they slap around dagger-toe stilettos or cross-laced gladiator heels (such a muscular trend again!). They’re often teamed with equally voluminous tops, either soft structured like Haryono Setiadi’s, or as stiff and fabulously fat as Toni Maticevski’s opera coat (styled, against trend, with cigarette trousers for a unique kind of chic).
Long drop gilets (tailored at the shoulders, dropping to the knees and lower) have also bled into yet another season; rallying news for those of us who, like chic tortoises (tortois?), are fond of adding an outer shell (sorry, layer) to smooth and mask our sartorial imperfections beneath.
Waists are dropping, heavy downward drapery is trending; the stiffness of recent seasons is giving way to an extravagant, slumped aesthetic. We like it. No, we adore it; there is a lilt of luxury in those generous swags of fabric..
But, it’s early days. Plenty more delicious contradictions to come. In the meantime, feast on this lot (thank you Gettyimages.com/mbfwa) handpicked by the Voxfrockers to slot – square pegs in square holes, round ones in round ones – neatly into our vision of spring.
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Janice Breen Burns, editor, jbb@voxfrock.com.au