The antithesis of Sydney-centric? Melbourne Made. Guest VoxFrocker Joy Zhang drills down to the DNA of Melbourne’s unique style signature from one of the most intriguing events on the Melbourne Fashion Festival Independent calender. Scroll down to meet Joy, and click back for daily updates from the VoxFrock Rookie Crew.
Words and photographs: Joy Zhang
In a hidden Collingwood laneway Melbourne Made blurred performance art and couture with a snapshot of the individuality and self-expression in Melbourne’s vibrant and eclectic fashion DNA.
The show featured 10 local brands typical of Melbourne’s rich history and reputation for producing designers who think beyond conventional fashion, embrace sustainability and high-tech fabrics, and bring a piece of their own culture to their unique collections: Rylee Martinsen, Daring Kiana, Colins Apparel, Maryama Saed, Misato Yukimoto,Mr Cuff., Fernanda Covarrubias, Christen Tzagarakis, James KcKerracher, and Asher+Archer
As lights dimmed, Melbourne Made opened on a stage empty but for a single white podium, the sound of ticking experimental music filling the air. Emerging designer Rylee Martinsen appeared, wrapping fabric around a model, fitting a bridal garment live on stage. Another model held a bolt of black fabric while two more walked the runway in cascading layers of white silk.
The show’s climax arrived with menswear designer and recent RMIT graduate, James McKerracher who stepsped onto the runway with his model in a half-finished suit. He began to stitch the suit’s remaining fabric onto the model’s body, hands moving with precision and grace. The audience watched in rapt silence as the garment took shape, then erupted into a standing ovation as James cut the final thread.
Later, James recounted how tailoring became his passion: “My apprenticeship at Mr. Cuff honed my skills in bespoke suit making,” he said. “I learned traditional craftmanship techniques like “asola lucida” (the sartorial detail known as the polished or Milanese buttonhole) from Melbourne Italian tailor Marco Rochelle at Mr Cuff…it’s a subtle, romantic touch that adds a personal flair, an emblem of an era where men’s high fashion celebrated delicate, refined, and personalized details…I’m eager to find a balance between contemporary design and traditional craftsmanship, pushing the boundaries in innovative ways.”
On the Melbourne Made runway, acts of live creation not only highlighted the designers’ technical prowess but underscored the importance of the creative process. By stitching a garment in real time, Rylee and James reminded us fashion is not just about the final product but about the artistry, time and passion that go into its completion.
“It was more than a fashion show,” commented one attendee, Natalie Bright. “It was a celebration of the human touch in design, a bold statement…especially in the era dominated by fast and patterned fashion.”
Sustainability also played a key role in Melbourne Made. Designer Fernanda Covarrubias for example, showcased striking garments and accessories made from recycled materials and another, Anneliese Bridgman of Asher & Archer, transformed recycled fabrics into exquisite garments that also served as compelling pieces of art.
Like many in the the audience, Japanese artist Reika Fukagawa was particularly impressed by avante garde designer Maryama Saed‘s collection; “This show opened my eyes to Australian fashion,” Reika said. “Maryama Saed’s designs make me imagine the vivid colour of coral and landscape in Australia.”
Melbourne has always been a hotbed of creativity, with its history, blend of art, culture, and diversity providing the perfect environment for innovation; this event celebrated the unique aesthetic that has sprung from that.
Meet The VoxFrocker: Joy Zhang
